We went to Pasar Payang twice during our Terengganu holiday recently. We were there in the second week of the school holidays.
The Monday that we went there, the one-way road leading to the market was jammed with vehicles. My brother dropped us off in front of the market, drove off and waited elsewhere for our phone call for him to pick us up after we finished shopping. We forgot that we could have just gone to the Ri-Yaz Heritage Resort and Spa, parked the car there and take the “bot penambang” from the resort to Pasar Payang.
The next day, however, traffic wasn’t that bad. My brother managed to find parking but we split up – he went off with his wife while his son and daughter were with me – to do our shopping. We took the trishaw back to the hotel as they (my brother and wife) had not finished with their shopping yet.
My niece and nephew enjoyed the market. The groundfloor of the market housed the wet produce and foodstuff such as local snacks, serunding, turtle eggs and local delicacies. Traders on the first floor were selling caftans, clothes, batik textiles and traditional household items.
What would Kuala Terengganu be without the Pasar Payang? The Kuala Terengganu museum and the Taman Tamadun Islam where the Masjid Kristal is located is not a crowd-puller to the town.
The one time I went there with three other friends, we saw a makcik smoking “rokok daun” at the market. We ended up buying the rokok daun, where you have to roll up the tobacco with the nipah leaves, and smoking them back at the hotel.
And you can find brassware items like the tepak sireh and the dulang hantaran commonly used in Malay weddings for a fraction of the price if you buy it in Kuala Lumpur.
So, I can understand why and shoppers alike prefer for Pasar Payang to remain where it is. One trader I spoke to said Pasar Payang needed refurbishment instead of being torn down.
He told me that he couldn’t be selling his wares at the current prices if he were to move to the new premise across the road. Most of the traders at Pasar Payang are paying RM200+ in rental compared with the RM2,000+ at Menara Warisan. There are some 1,000 traders and the double-storey Pasar Payang.
I personally see Pasar Payang as a heritage building, never mind if it is not yet 100 years old. If Oxford’s definition is anything to go by, Pasar Payang is has the “valued objects and qualities such as historic buildings and cultural traditions that have been passed down from previous generations.”
And I would support any efforts to “Selamatkan Pasar Payang” (the facebook page is here) for the character and colours it provide to the façade of Kuala Terengganu.





